C7 Procharger Installation Pdf En Average ratng: 4,7/5 4413votes
C7 Procharger Installation Pdf En

Disclaimer Elite Engineering does not accept any responsibility for damage to your vehicle. The installation of all products listed on this website is subject to our terms and conditions, and by purchasing and installing our products you agree to be bound by the Elite Engineering terms and conditions. You assume any and all responsibility for any damage or injury that may occur while performing this work. For additional information about lifting your C5 or C6, please consult your vehicle’s owners manual.

This not only speeds up the install, but it also ensures that all factory braking, cooling, and oiling systems on the car work just as GM intended. Using a patented crank pulley design, we are able to secure a 8.125' supercharger drive pulley onto the factory harmonic balancer, without having to drop the steering rack or pin the.

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I picked up the car exactly 365 days before first start with the procharger. Here are a few pictures from my DIY install. 60 mph - 90 mph time 3.2 seconds stock, 2.8 seconds after supercharger. Skip shift removed, 4 cyl mode removed. I requested a 93 octane tune but I don't know if procharger provided that or left it at 91.

Plan to dyno tune it soon. Here is a datalog of a 3rd gear 55-105 run. Puts it above magazine tested z06 times and just below 911 Turbo S times and that's starting in 3rd so before 70 mph the car is at a bit of a disavantage. Matlab 2010 64 Bit Free Download. Safe to say the supercharger really starts galloping at ~4000 rpm: 60 to 70 takes 0.97 seconds, 70 to 80 takes 0.90 sec, 80 to 90 takes 1.00 sec, 90 to 100 takes 1.03 sec.

2) Now for the tough work. Open her up: instructions don't say to remove the hood yet and I don't know why, but thats the first thing I did. Just 4 bolts with a 13mm. No need to touch the hood shocks. They don't get in the way.

3) Air intake, hood scoop, small things. 4) Front bumper. All good until you pull the 2 clips off located to the inside of the headlights. DON'T PULL HARD. Pull up on the bumper just enough to get a screw driver in there and loosen the 2 bolts holding each bracket. Then the bumper just slides up.

5) Originally i lifted the car by the front section the K-Member then put jack stands on the rear section. This is great for stability and GM's preferred jack points.

You can't pry the K-member down if you are using it to hold the car up, took me a while to realize that. Moved the jack stands to the side locations, left them there for the rest of the install, very stable. Also, make sure you have a 3 ft or longer pry bar and lift the K-member by prying up at the sway bar brackets, super easy this way to put the spacers in, did it alone. Make sure you use some thick zipties for the radiator, mine broke 3 times cause they were weak while i moved it around.

6) Balancer bolt. I guess people have a hard time because they try an impact or a breaker bar on its own.

Its physics guys. Put the car in 6th gear, have someone hold the brakes. Breaker bar with 4 foot pipe on it, took about as much force as torquing a tire lugnut. 1 minute job. Torqued back to 240 by having two people pull on the torque wrench (pipe was too narrow). Put belt on now and zip tie it like I did, makes it easy to put on later.

7) Woo supercharger on, since the bracket is such a nice fit, you can lean it on the power steering motor and start 1 bolt at a time, did it alone. 8) Intercooler up. Wasn't very hard but definitely good to have two people, need to angle it one side at a time then it sits in the cradle.

Or you could use a jack if doing it alone. Note that my leg bent that plastic support down a bit, nbd, made zero difference with the cover on. 9) Spark plugs to ngk6510. Hardest part of the job by far. Take pictures of each step to make sure you got all the electric stuff right. Need to pull fuse box out. Needle nose pliers worked for pulling 7 of the 8 wires with quite a bit of effort.

The furthest back on passenger side took several tries for about 30 minutes. I wish i had some curved needle nose, that probably would have worked. 10) I wish i took pictures of the tubing and stuff. The only very hard one was the charge tube from the supercharger to the intercooler (horizontal). I used windex on all the charge tubes to make them slide in easy rather than WD-40, doesn't get your hands slippery and dries quickly after install. Theres no space there due to the coolant lines. The other side was okay.

Only use the smaller hose clamps for the 3/8' line or you'll run out for the 1/2' lines. Hose routing was very easy and procharger provided plenty extra 1/2' for you to route it which ever way you want. 11) All bolted up and tuned. First startup.

No engine codes. 14) all done. Putting trim back on. Hood took 1-2 adjustments to get gaps correct. It still bumped the left side intercooler rubber elbow when closing but just slightly and it does not cause any damage. I was very surprised there were zero rattles, squeaks, air leaks, etc. I did have to retighten the belt twice because I didn't tension it right.

Tensioning is relatively easy. About 20 minute job. Just have to remove the throttle body rubber angle. All in all I am pretty happy.

Time wise, 12 hour job for two guys including breaks. EDIT: This is a P-1SC-1 kit with a 4.25' pulley. Not my exact car but an identical setup: • • • • •.