Southern Minnesota Between Freeborn & Wells, As I recall: 841 was standard four speed, 851 5 speed, 861 5 speed with continuous PTO, 871 Select O Speed. We had the 5 speed with continuous PTO. Pushing the clutch down part way stopped the forward motion but the PTO kept turning.

You are logged in as a guest. ( ) How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? Jump to page: Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]:: ->Message format Posted 8/8/2013 10:05 (#3255397) Subject: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? Martinsville, In. On the 801 series Ford tractors, how do I know if it is 821, 841, 851 etc.?

Digital Recipe Organizer Software. The hood just says 801. Posted 8/8/2013 10:19 (#3255418 - in reply to #3255397) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors?

By the serial number tag. Posted 8/8/2013 10:22 (#3255424 - in reply to #3255397) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? WC Franklin Co., In. I beleive the 5 speed up and down transmission was the 861. Dad's had several of them over the years. Handy little tractors. Posted 8/8/2013 10:31 (#3255450 - in reply to #3255424) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors?

Pa I think the 841 is 4 speed, non live pto. 861 is 5 speed live pto (2 stage? 871 is selectospeed. Josh Posted 8/8/2013 10:37 (#3255457 - in reply to #3255424) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? Southern Minnesota Between Freeborn & Wells As I recall: 841 was standard four speed, 851 5 speed, 861 5 speed with continuous PTO, 871 Select O Speed.

We had the 5 speed with continuous PTO. Pushing the clutch down part way stopped the forward motion but the PTO kept turning. Pushing the clutch all the way down stopped the PTO also. The PTO was not an independent type as you did need to stop to engage it. This tractor worked out quite well on a baler as pushing the clutch half way down stopped the forward motion to allow a slug to work through.

The five speed shifter went up and down. Fully up forward was 3rd gear and back was Reverse. This could work out as a shuttle of sorts for a loader. We found that 3rd was too fast. Pushing the shifter down part way gave you 2nd which was a better speed for a loader.

This made the shifting back and forth a little tricky but not too bad Posted 8/8/2013 11:01 (#3255494 - in reply to #3255397) Subject: Thanks for the Info! N/T Martinsville, In.. Posted 8/8/2013 11:48 (#3255557 - in reply to #3255397) Subject: RE: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? SE Michigan Look for the serial / model number stamped in the trans casting.

On the left side sitting in the seat. It is on a flat machined surface not to far from some drilled / taped holes for a loader or?? (forf4000 001.jpg) Attachments ---------------- (63KB - 120 downloads) Posted 8/8/2013 12:01 (#3255571 - in reply to #3255557) Subject: RE: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? Martinsville, In. Nice looking tractor! Posted 8/8/2013 16:54 (#3256009 - in reply to #3255571) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? Check out this website.

It will tell you everything you want to know. Bill Posted 8/8/2013 18:37 (#3256160 - in reply to #3255418) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? Lincoln County. NC -gotta change the mapdot. - 8/8/2013 10:19 By the serial number tag. Where might one find that tag, Gerald?

The model & serial number are hand stamped into the clutch housing. Posted 8/8/2013 20:21 (#3256413 - in reply to #3255457) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? North Central Mo - Chillicothe Correct on the 861. It has the two stage clutch giving it 'live power' and is a 5 speed. I just mow with it, but is a simple, easy to work on tractor. Still 6 volt positive ground. TF Posted 8/8/2013 22:38 (#3256814 - in reply to #3255457) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors?

Northeast Nebraska. Tedbear - 8/9/2013 09:37 As I recall: 841 was standard four speed, 851 5 speed, 861 5 speed with continuous PTO, 871 Select O Speed. We had the 5 speed with continuous PTO.

Pushing the clutch down part way stopped the forward motion but the PTO kept turning. Pushing the clutch all the way down stopped the PTO also. The PTO was not an independent type as you did need to stop to engage it.

Bump Of Chicken Jupiter Rar 320 Kbps Dubstep. This tractor worked out quite well on a baler as pushing the clutch half way down stopped the forward motion to allow a slug to work through. The five speed shifter went up and down. Fully up forward was 3rd gear and back was Reverse.

This could work out as a shuttle of sorts for a loader. We found that 3rd was too fast. Pushing the shifter down part way gave you 2nd which was a better speed for a loader. This made the shifting back and forth a little tricky but not too bad Sorry and I may get flamed for this but a loader on a little Ford to me has always been a little on the crazy side.

Sure I've seen PLENTY of them on little Fords but really? I will say I grew up on a little 861 that was converted to Propane and I loved that little shifter!

My first real job with that tractor was pulling Anhydrous tanks along the field for my uncle when he needed to fill up when side dressing. I'd pull it along the pasture and he'd fill over the fence. It wasn't a big deal and he'd get on and go with me to get a new tank, etc.

I used it to rake hay later and rode it over alot of acres by the time I was maybe 10-11 I guess? THOSE WERE the good ole days!! Posted 8/9/2013 06:08 (#3257043 - in reply to #3256009) Subject: Re: How do I identify 801 series Ford tractors? Southern Minnesota Between Freeborn & Wells Thanks for the link. I wasn't aware that the 8x1 tractors were available without PTO and 3 point.

Around here they all had PT0's and 3 points. Edited by tedbear 8/9/2013 06:10 Jump to page: Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] Jump to forum: ().

Thanks Dawzie. I did pick this tractor up. I see how the shifter is a PIA. Everything I can find on it tells me that as soon as I get used to it I will love it. It looks like she has had a lot of 'bondo' repairs on the hood and the fenders, a lot of grinding and sheet metal work is in my future on this project. She does run good.

I still cant see the serial and model number. Maybe to much paint or maybe battery corrosion. I was thinking the 800 and the NAA was about the same size frame. It looks like the 800 is a little bigger sitting next to my NAA.

Thank you for your input. I got one with my house and the guy didnt tell me anything but youll figure it out? UP POSITION (on shifter) -- PULL LFT = Reverse PUSH RT = 3 -- up position is used most since you dont need 1 or 2 unless you are bush hogging or tilling - then always have to back up -- while this tranny is PIA these two are easy and always used. PUSH (on shifter) HALF WAY DOWN!!!! -- PULL LFT = 1st gear PUSH RT = 2nd PUSH DOWN (on shifter) ALL THE WAY -- PULL LFT = 5th gear PUSH RT = 4th gear 4 2 3 DN UP 5 1 R If they turned these numbers vertical with the 5 1 R on the left and the 4 2 3 on the right and UP MDL DN in between those numbers --it would fix everything. 860 You are really going to like having this tractor.

Once you get used to the shifter you will find it a plus too. That 3rd/reverse on the same level functions like a poor mans shuttle shift (Clutch in flip the lever one way or the other). We have a 851 and 861, I have seen them rated as high as 45hp depending on the source. The five speed provides good gearing for most applications. We operate a small horse ranch in upstate NY.

Until recently we used nothing but antique fords for power. They are inexpensive, easy to maintain and have a great parts network. Heck I bet you paid less than 10% the cost of a new 45hp.how could you go wrong? BTW-Your tractor will pull a 3 blade plow in most soils. I have an 850 with partially ureadable serial number - looks ground off too many times and i just used paint strippper but havent tried to read again. Here is a list of my findings in the last 6months??

Comprehensive maybe, if anyone has any better resources or parts place please let me know? Cant post pictures and i am trying to find about about the brake bar on the right side that has a lock and a curly round thing that looks like it would hold a rod to set the brake to keep tractor from rolling - has lock(teeth that hold brake pressure) that i have been using by pushing right brake and jamming the lock into the teeth(1/4 round front facing gear teeth that mate up to the loccking bar with teeth connected to the round curly thing? Havent searched the parts catalogs that i have found for this brake catch/latch/ - i called it an emergency brake in an earlier post??

Was going to make a bar to stick in the curly thing co i can set the brake before i get off the tractor - not standing in front of the wheel holding the brake and reahing in for the catch/latch/gear teeth. Any help would be appreciated - i will search the parts catalog again but didnt see that part?

Ford 800 transmission Its totally reliable - just takes some getting used to - did you get the number on the top of the starter housing - just forward of the starter mount on top? It will tell you some good data on year and options unless different parts were switched out? Rick you cant let somebody else use it without explanation - mine also has the clutch where if you push all the way down - it puts it in gear and will move - then release 2 inches and clutch is disengaged - let it up and it will be in that gear. The all the way down is good when your learning the positions - if you select what you think is reverse and put clutch all the way down it will creep forward if you were wrong and backwards if you selected reverse for real. The first couple of times i used the tractor i had to remember what gear was where - then i strated using the clutch all the way down to make sure i was in reverse - it doesnt help for foward gears - thats when you have to figure it out which gear. LT RT up - R 3 Mdl - 1 2 Positions of reality Dn - 5 4 4 2 3 DN UP actual transmission printing 5 1 R MDL see the colors - they didnt put MDL on shift pattern or it would have been 50% easier to figure out - then throw in the double clutch on mine and i was ready to drive it in the lake - for making me look stupid - even though nobody was watching.

I usaully check to see if i am in reverse with the clutch all the way down as it creeps instead of being fully engaged. I just bought an 860 with the tranny all are speaking of here. It has a problem and I was wondering if any of you had experienced a situation like this. 3 - R works fine. Push down to middle position 1 - 2 work fine.

Put it all the way down for 4 - 5 and it's like the clutch disengages and even if you go back to any other position, the clutch stays disengaged. Kill the engine, let it sit a while, and all is right with the world. I haven't pulled the top off the tranny yet, but was told to and see if there is anything obvious.

Any other suggestions would be great to hear. Maybe it's the double acting clutch Rick spoke of, but I'm not clear on that. Thanks from James in East Texas.